Announcing the Indian Launch of Hagen’s Elite Tropical Aquarium Tanks & Elite External Canister Filters for Indian hobbyists.Your favorite online pet store is the first to launch the online sale of Hagen products in India and the following Hagen Products are available for sale.

•          ELITE Style Glass Aquarium Tropical Set - 3 Sizes Available
•          ELITE External Canister Filters - 4 Models Available

We are working on many more products like this to be included in our online store. If you have any feedback, Let us know.

Signs of fish Ich disease include white spots on the bodies and fins of fish, which explains one of the common names for this disease. Whitespot, also commonly referred to as Ich, is actually caused by protozoa known as Ichthyophthirius. This is one of the most common problems in home aquariums, but can be easily dealt with if detected early. Fish afflicted with Ich have white spots on their bodies and fins, clamped fins, and visible trouble breathing.

The white spots that are one of the classic signs of fish Ich disease often resemble grains of salt. These spots are actually small cysts. Individual cysts may be up to around 1 mm in diameter. In some cases, these cysts may join together to form irregularly shaped white patches. The spots can be evident on any part of the bodies and fins of fish. Commonly though, the spots will start on the head of the fish and then spread over the body.

Scratching is another of the signs of fish Ich disease. Badly infected fish may become itchy and try to scratch themselves against nearly anything they can. You may see your infected fish trying to scratch himself on aquarium decorations, the bottom of the tank, or anything else he can rub against.

Loss of appetite can also be one of the signs of fish Ich disease. If you have several fish in your tank and only one or two are initially infected, it may be difficult to notice a loss of appetite.

Some other signs of fish Ich disease include cloudiness on the eyes or fins. This is generally not as noticeable as the white spots. Rapid gill fluctuation, or heavy breathing, is another one of the common signs of fish Ich disease. This is due to the infection invading the fish’s gills, making breathing difficult.

Fish Ich disease is easily treatable and best detected early. The most common of the signs of fish Ich disease are white spots on the head and body of the fish. Itching, rapid breathing, and loss of appetite are other signs of fish Ich disease.

Introducing new fish gradually and deliberately is important for a successful tank community. It is critically important, of course, to be sure your fish are compatible before introducing new tank mates. Keep in mind that fish, much like people, all have their own personalities and temperaments. Just because a particular species is supposed to get along with another doesn’t always mean they will. Introducing new fish carefully and in a planned way can help.

When establishing a new tank, start with two of the fish that are typically the most peaceful species on your list. Try to get the largest fish you can of this species. Next, introduce the next fish on your list, the second-to-most peaceful, in a pair. Try to find two fish that are slightly smaller than your first two, but still fairly large. Continue in this manner, with the fish size decreasing as the potential for aggression increases. This allows the least aggressive of the fish to establish their own territories in the tank, and also ensures that the more docile fish will be larger than the more aggressive fish.

Always make sure you have plenty of places for new fish to hide in your tank, so that they can become adjusted to their new environment slowly. You may want to rearrange the decorations in your tank prior to introducing new fish. Doing this can help distract the existing fish and force them to focus on something other than the new inhabitants. More important though, it changes all of the previous territorial boundaries in the tank. As the new fish become acclimated to their surrounds and try to establish their own territory, they will be on more even footing than if they are introduced into a previously stable environment.

When introducing new fish to an established community, it is always best to add more than one. Adding a single fish to an existing tank can cause territorial issues for the current inhabitants. While there may still be issues when two or more fish are added, the aggression aimed at the “new guys” will be dissipated among the newcomers.

Before introducing new fish in an established tank, always feed the current tank inhabitants. It is dangerous, not to mention unfair, to force new fish to compete with the established community over food.

Introducing new fish can be stressful to new and old tank-mates alike. Planning the introduction and proceeding in a deliberate way can help ease this transition.

Aquarium filters keep your tank clean and healthy. Choosing an aquarium filter that is right for your situation is important. The type and size of your filter system will vary, depending on factors such as the type of aquarium (freshwater or saltwater), the size of the tank, and the type of inhabitants. The three basic types of filter systems are biological, mechanical, or chemical. Your filtration system may use a single type of system, but most likely will employ a combination of these types.

When choosing an aquarium filter, consider a biological filter. Biological filters work to break down dangerous and undesirable compounds like ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate by introducing other biological elements or processes. They keep your water stable and free of toxins. Common types of biological filters include under gravel filters, sponge filters, canister filters, trickle filters, and power filters. The most common biological filtration system for aquariums is an under gravel biological filter. Water is pulled either down through the gravel or (with a reverse flow filter) down from the top of the tank and then up through the gravel.

Sponge filters are usually powered by air pumps or small water pumps and pass water over porous sponges. These are a good option for tanks with very small fish that may be in danger of being sucked into larger filters. Canister filters hold various filter media inside. The actual type of media used will depend on the specifics of your tank. Trickle filters hold biological media outside the water and allow the tank water to trickle over the media and back into the aquarium. Power filters, like canister filters, are primarily mechanical in nature but also include a biological component.

Mechanical filters use a fine-gauge cartridge or other medium through which water is forced. This filter cartridge itself traps impurities. Mechanical filters keep the water looking clean by removing debris. Common types of mechanical filters are cartridge, power, and under gravel filters. These are most beneficial when used in conjunction with biological filters. Using a mechanical filter alone will keep your aquarium water clean, but will also remove some of the elements you need, such as healthy algae, to keep your water safe.

Another option to consider when choosing an aquarium filter is chemical filters. Chemical filters work to remove elements that cannot be removed by mechanical filters because the elements have dissolved into the water. Activated carbon is the most common type of chemical filtration, normally used in conjunction with a power or canister filter. Activated carbon will remove many potentially harmful substances and help keep your tank water looking clear. Other common chemical filtration agents specifically remove or reduce the levels of nitrates, phosphates and ammonia.

When choosing an aquarium filter, be sure to carefully evaluate the needs of your tank system. Having an aquarium filter that is not sufficient for the size and population of your tank can result in harmful byproducts being left in the water. These can sicken or even kill you fish. At the same time, choosing an aquarium filter that is significantly more powerful than your system demands can mean healthy bacteria are being stripped from your water.

If you’re looking to start up a new home aquarium, there are several fish aquarium supplies you’ll need, especially as you get started with your first fish tank. For beginners, here is a basic general guide of fish aquarium supplies you should be prepared to purchase.

First of all, it goes without saying, but you’ll need to buy a tank. It’s recommended that beginners begin with at least a mid-sized tank. This is because with mid-sized and larger tanks (10 gallons and above), there is a larger margin for error if problems occur in terms of adding and replacing chemicals, checking water levels, and other sensitive fish tank maintenance tasks. This is opposed to smaller tanks or fish bowls, in which a few too many drops of one particular additive or another can make a major-and sometimes fatal-difference in your water quality and the health and well-being of your fish.

Once you have a tank picked out, you’ll need to make sure that you buy plenty of water testing kits, so that you can stay on top of the pH and chemical levels. Depending on the size of your tank, whether you have chosen to design a freshwater or saltwater home aquarium, and what types of fish, plants, and other aquatic wildlife you decide to have in your tank, the recommended optimum levels will differ. But the manufacturer’s instructions that come with the water testing kits should be able to give you not only instruction on how to use their kits, but also what types of optimum levels to be shooting for.

Additional fish aquarium supplies you’ll need include a filtration system, some sort of lighting system, an aquarium cover, tank stand, water pump, aeration and/or oxygenation feature, and a water protein skimmer (in some cases, these last two item are optional). The size and brand you’ll need to purchase will depend on what size of tank you’re setting up.

Lastly, you’ll want to purchase some everyday fish aquarium supplies, such as food and water additives. And, if you like, you may also want to purchase some decorative plants, fish furniture, and other ornamentation for your aquarium, so that your fish will have plenty of items to swim around and hide behind. This is the fun part-when you can choose decorations that suit not only your personality, but also the style of aquarium you’re wanting to design.

Buying fish aquarium supplies shouldn’t be a daunting task. Instead, it is usually an experience that new fish owners sincerely enjoy. Take your time to browse through the wide assortment of supplies and equipment and choose the types and sizes that are right for you and the style of aquarium you’re trying to achieve. And enjoy the process of choosing your aquarium’s decor, as well as carefully selecting fish, wildlife, and plants to inhabit the tank. But most of all, while buying your fish aquarium supplies, be sure to have fun.

Cloudy aquarium water quality is one of the most important on-going facets of maintaining a healthy tank. Cloudy aquarium water often signifies high levels of bacteria in the water. These bacteria can have a variety of causes which need to be identified and eliminated, along with the water being cleaned.

Keep in mind, when it comes to maintaining aquarium water quality, the size of the tank can make a difference. Larger aquariums are often easier to maintain, especially for beginners. Because the water must be properly treated for the fish and plants to survive, having more water allows you a wider margin of error and a more forgiving environment.

Cloudy aquarium water with a greenish tint is usually a sign of algae bloom. The most common causes for this are too many nutrients (generally phosphates and/or nitrates), and too much lighting. A high nutrient level is often caused by overfeeding your fish. The excess food falls to the bottom of the tank and decays, releasing phosphates. An excess of light, not only from the tank light but also from room lighting and too much sunlight, can also cause algae bloom. Because algae consume oxygen at night, algae bloom can quickly deplete the oxygen levels in your tank. Be sure to try to increase oxygen circulation while treating the tank, to prevent problems for your fish. Clean the tank by vacuuming the gravel, cleaning the filters, and performing a partial water change. You can also use chemicals known as flocculants, which pull together small bits of debris into larger clumps that can be filtered out. To prevent future problems, reduce the amount of food and determine whether reducing light is necessary.

Cloudy aquarium water that appears whitish is often due to a bacteria bloom. This can sometimes be caused by excess feeding, similar to an algae bloom. Another common cause of bacteria bloom is overly thorough cleaning of the filters and gravel (yes, your tank can be “too clean”). Start by reducing the amount of food you are giving your fish, to prevent overfeeding. Check ammonia levels frequently, as they can rise to a dangerous level during a bacteria bloom. As with an algae bloom, using flocculants can help clear the tank.

Cloudy aquarium water signals an unhealthy environment for your fish. Regular water changes can help prevent these problems. Change 2 to 5% of the water in the aquarium weekly, if needed. Changing less than this will not generally have enough positive impact to be worthwhile; changing more than this can be detrimental to the aquarium. If you do not perform small water changes weekly, a monthly water change should be done. If done monthly, this change should be around 15% of the water in the aquarium. Changing the water helps remove chemicals that are not filtered out, and helps to keep the gravel clean. Cloudy aquarium water signals a problem, but it need not be cause for alarm. When identified and treated properly, your cloudy aquarium water can be crystal clear again in no time.

Hiding fish are frequently frightened or otherwise uncomfortable with their environment. Determining the reason they are hiding isn’t always easy, and coaxing them out can be somewhat troublesome as well. In some cases, the fish simply needs a period of adjustment. In other cases, the reason may be something that can be corrected by the aquarist.

Some fish are, by their own nature, shy animals. When introduced into a new environment, they tend to look for places to hide and shy away from open spaces. If this is the case with your hiding fish, it is likely you will begin to see a change within a few days of the fish arriving in his new home. If you do not see an adjustment within a few days, there may be another problem.

Some fish are more comfortable in schools, and having too few of them can result in hiding fish. These breeds prefer to be in groups of at least four or five fish. If the school is smaller than that, they may either hide together or hide independently. Either result is the same: you were excited about your new tank inhabitants but find yourself constantly searching for your hiding fish. If this is the case, try adding a few more of that species. You may soon find you have a happy school of fish parading itself throughout your tank.

Most fish like to have places to hide; this keeps them from feeling vulnerable all the time. Ironically, you may find with some hiding fish that the more places they have to hide, the less they will do so. Some fish get uncomfortable knowing there are only a few places in the tank that they feel comfortable hiding. By providing real hiding places, such as rock piles of driftwood, or artificial spots like ceramic decorations, you may find that your hiding fish spend more of their time out in the open.

Hiding fish are usually trying to communicate to you that there is something about their environment that is making them unhappy. Whether this is a schooling issue, a personality trait, or an environmental concern, determining and correcting the cause can make a big difference. While some fish will always be a bit shyer than others, you shouldn’t have to constantly be searching for your hiding fish. Figuring out why they are hiding and correcting the situation may turn them into the inner show-fish they’ve always longed to be!

Maintaining aquarium water pH is one of the most important on-going facets of maintaining a healthy tank. Proper and consistent pH levels are critical to the health and well-being of your fish. Basically speaking, pH measures how alkaline or acidic the water in your tank is. The pH scale ranges from 0 (acidic) to 14 (alkaline); a pH of 7 is neutral. Most aquarists strive for maintaining aquarium water pH at somewhere between 5 and 9, depending on the particular fish.

Keep in mind, when it comes to maintaining aquarium water pH, the size of the tank can make a difference. Larger aquariums are often easier to maintain, especially for beginners. Because the water must be properly treated for the fish and plants to survive, having more water allows you a wider margin of error and a more forgiving environment. It is also important to note that the pH scale is logarithmic. This means that a pH of 9 is ten times more alkaline than a pH of 8.

Maintaining aquarium water pH is best done by testing on a weekly basis. When it comes to making water changes, you can do so monthly or weekly. If you opt for weekly water changes, change 2 to 5% of the water in the aquarium each week. Changing less than this will not generally have enough positive impact to be worthwhile; changing more than this can be detrimental to the aquarium. You should first always note what the pH of your tap water is, after leaving it sitting out overnight in a bowl or bucket. This lets you know what you can expect the water change to do to your efforts at maintaining aquarium water pH.

If you do not perform small water changes weekly, a monthly water change should be done. If done monthly, this change should be around 15% of the water in the aquarium. Changing the water helps remove chemicals that are not filtered out, and helps to keep the gravel clean. This can make maintaining aquarium water pH easier by keeping overall levels consistent in your tank.

If you find that your pH test indicates you may need to adjust the pH in your water, there are several ways to go about it. In general, raising the pH level is much easier than lowering it. Low pH can often be caused by “soft” water. You can raise pH and harden the water (making the pH more stable) by adding crushed coral in your filter (depending on the filter type), adding decorations like limestone rock that contain buffering salts, or using specially formulated products to raise pH. To lower pH, you will likely also need to soften the water to prevent the normal buffering properties of the hard water from raising the pH back up. One method of doing this is filtering the water through peat.

Maintaining aquarium water pH keeps the environment stable and healthy for your fish. You should always verify the proper pH range for your fish (generally between 6 and 8, depending on the type of fish). It is also helpful to know the pH of your tap water, to be aware of the effect water changes may have on the pH level.

Signs of fish disease depend upon the specific disease, but there are certain signs you should always look for. Any marked change in the appearance or behavior of your fish should be noted. This can include sluggishness, labored breathing, scratching against objects in the tank, discolored spots and loss of appetite. None of these symptoms alone can clearly define a single disorder, but can be signs of fish disease.

Sluggish or lethargic fish may be the result of poor water quality rather than signs of fish disease. Internal parasites are a common cause for lethargy, as is an early stage of a bacterial infection.

Rapid gill fluctuation, or heavy breathing, is another one of the common signs of fish disease. This can be due to an infection invading the fish’s gills, making breathing difficult. It can also be caused by gill parasites, or poor water quality (especially hypoxia or nitrite toxemia). Viral infection and “gill rot” are also common reasons for this sign of fish disease.

Scratching can be another of the signs of fish disease. Fish infected with ectoparasites or Ich may become itchy and try to scratch themselves against nearly anything they can. You may see your infected fish trying to scratch himself on aquarium decorations, the bottom of the tank, or anything else he can rub against.

White spots are one of the classic signs of fish disease Ich, and often resemble grains of salt. Cottony white patches on the skin of a fish can be signs of fish diseases such as fungus infections. Red or white lesions on the body of a fish are often signs of eternal parasites. White or red fin edges, especially when accompanied by the fraying or splitting of fins, is frequently a sign of a bacterial infection or external parasite infestation.

Loss of appetite can also be one of the signs of fish disease. If you have several fish in your tank and only one or two are initially infected, it may be difficult to notice a loss of appetite.

Many forms of fish disease are treatable when detected early. The most common of the signs of fish disease involve changes in the appearance or behavior of your fish. In order to know exactly what these signs of fish disease mean, you will need to either more closely examine the fish or enlist the assistance of an expert.