Cat spraying is a form of territorial marking, a way of communication and a way to declare ownership. These behavioral patterns are natural to a cat and must be curbed if they are to live successfully indoors. Cat spraying is one of the leading causes of cat abandonment. Usually adjustments to the cat’s environment can eliminate cat spraying.

Cat spraying needs to be differentiated from urinating outside of the litterbox. When a cat is urinating outside of the litter box, the cat will squat to urinate on a horizontal surface. When a cat sprays, it will present its backside to a vertical surface such as a wall or couch at about the height of a cat’s nose. The cat will then twitch its tail and spray. Sprayed urine has a different, stronger smell than regular urine.

Non-spayed or non-neutered cats are the heaviest sprayers - especially males. Spraying by unaltered cats can be a way of letting other cats know that they are ready to mate. Cat spraying rarely happens prior to a kitten reaching sexual maturity. Cats are sexually mature at about 6 months of age. Spaying or neutering kittens before 6 months of age will help to eliminate the majority of indoor cat spraying. A small percentage of cats will still spray even after being spayed or neutered.

If spaying or neutering does not eliminate indoor spraying, then you need to examine why a cat maybe spraying and where a cat is marking. Sometimes changes in a cat’s environment will cause a cat to spray. The changes can include moving into a new home or the addition of a new cat to the family. If this is the case, spraying may cease once the cat settles into the new house or when the cats become used to each other. It may be necessary, in some cases, to separate cats that are not able to resolve conflicts to stop the cat spraying. If a cat is able to see another cat outside, they may spray indoors in response to the stimuli. If outdoor stimuli is the cause of cat spraying, then preventing the cat from being able to see outside can eliminate the marking. This can be as simple as moving a plant in front of the window or putting something on the ledge to prevent the cat from being able to perch there.

Placing items that stimulate behaviors incompatible with spraying, such as a food dish or toys, in the sprayed spots can possibly help change cat behavior in that area. There are commercial sprays that can help stop some cat spraying by eliciting a calming pheromone. Be sure to completely clean the sprayed area. Adding a little vinegar or lemon juice to the water will help neutralize the odor of the cat’s urine. You could also use a commercial odor neutralizer purchased from a local pet store. Do not use ammonia; this will make the smell worse.
Punishment doesn’t work with cats. Punishing will generally only act to increase stress and, as a result, potentially increase spraying. If you are unable to stop your cat from spraying, then discuss this with your veterinarian. He or she will be able to check for any medical problems and offer other behavioral solutions. If cat spraying is not addressed early, it may become a habit.

Cat urine removal is one of the basic concerns of cat owners. If you do not clean the spot completely, your cat will be attracted to that spot again and again.

Various chemical salts like urea, urochrome and uric acid crystals form the basic ingredients of cat urine. The uric acid crystals are the major problem because they can get reactivated in humid weather. The overpowering smell of urine is as much a problem as the yellow, unattractive stains your cat’s accident can leave behind.

Every cat can have elimination accidents. You should always have a few supplies handy just in case. A good quality enzyme cleaner, gloves, spray water bottle, small disposal bags, sponges, and lots of paper towels will generally be all you need to clean these stains. Do keep in mind, though, that you should never use brushes or scrubbers to try to clean these stains. They could actually work the urine further into the fibers, which would pose a much larger problem, especially on carpeted surfaces.

Once you’ve found the soiled spot, slip on your gloves and use some paper towels to blot any excess urine from the area. Clean the spot thoroughly with your enzymatic cleaner, and be sure to follow all the directions on the cleaner’s package exactly. If you’re caught without an enzymatic cleaner, try putting peroxide on the stain, or washing the area with white vinegar. Never use cleaners that contain the tiniest amount of ammonia. The scent is close enough to cat urine that it may actually draw your cat back to the spot. Once you’re sure the stain is completely clean, rinse the area with room temperature water, blot, and allow the spot to dry.

If you have an odor and you just can’t find the stain that caused it, don’t worry. Pick up an inexpensive black light at your local novelty or hardware store. Urine and other biological stains will glow fluorescent under black light.

If the stain is on padded or foamy areas, simply cleaning the surface stain may not be enough. You may end up having to reupholster the piece and replace the underlying padding. That may very well be the only way to remove the stain and prevent resoiling.

We’ve talked about how to clean cat urine stains, but there is one other thing to consider: Why your cat went outside his litter box to begin with. First things first: is your cat’s litter box clean? Many cats are finicky and simply will not use a dirty litter pan. If you have more than one cat, are there territorial issues with the litter box? Make sure you have at least one litter box for two cats, and if there is fighting, one litter box per cat. Have there been any big changes in your household lately? A new baby, new pets, or moving to a new home, may upset a sensitive cat and can lead to inappropriate elimination.

If you can’t find any emotional or environmental reasons for your cat’s accident, or if it continues to happen, carefully evaluate his physical state. Is he eating properly? Is he as playful and lovable as normal? Have any other behaviors changed? It is very important to take your cat to his vet right away to make sure there is not a physical cause for his mishaps. Inappropriate elimination can be a sign of serious illnesses, and your cat will need treatment as soon as possible.

Your cat could suffer from a number of cat skin conditions. Skin conditions can be caused by parasites, bacteria, fungi, contact irritations and many other causes. Common cat skin conditions can be grouped into four main types:
1) tchy skin conditions,
2) hair loss conditions,
3) painful skin conditions and
4) conditions under the skin.

An itchy skin condition will cause your cat to continuously rub, scratch, bite at, or lick the affected area to find relief. This type of cat skin condition is readily apparent since you probably will be distracted by their actions. Food allergies, fleas, scabies, chiggers, ear mites, dandruff, eczema and other dermatitis conditions are common examples of itchy skin conditions.

Disorders that cause hair loss, changes in hair growth or appearance will also be readily apparent to an owner. Examples of this type of cat skin conditions include mange, ringworm, alopecia, and hypothyroidism.

Pyoderma is a painful cat skin condition where there is signs of an active infection on or beneath the skin and may involve a discharge. Pyodermas include cat acne, impetigo and abscesses.

Finally, when grooming your cat, you may discover lumps and bumps under the skin. These lumps and bumps could be as benign as warts or hematomas or more serious as larvae infestations or cancer.

Whatever the type of cat skin condition, a visit to the veterinarian is warranted. Your veterinarian can diagnosis the cause and prescribe treatment for your cat’s condition. Many times the veterinarian will need to take a skin scrape to confirm the diagnosis. The skin scrapes can be viewed under a microscope or cultured to determine the bacterial or fungal cause. Many cat skin conditions can also affect humans including ringworm, fleas, and scabies. Cat skin conditions caused by parasites can be simply solved by treating for the specific parasite (mites, fleas, scabies, etc.). Both the cat and the cat’s environment will need to be treated to successfully put an end to the infestation cycle.

For an allergic response, you will need to determine the cause of the allergy which can be fairly difficult in some cases. Allergies can be from something ingested (food or treats), inhaled or from physical contact. Your veterinarian can conduct allergy skin tests to rule out common allergens that your cat maybe allergic too.

Cat skin conditions caused by other diseases such as hypothyroidism will improve when the underlying medical condition is addressed. For lumps found under the skin, it maybe necessary for the cat to undergo a medical procedure to remove the growth and having it evaluated. Medications can be prescribed to cure bacterial and fungal infections. These medications can be topically (applied to the skin as shampoos, ointments, etc.) or given internally.

It maybe necessary during treatment to have your cat wear a collar to prevent the cat from being able to get at the skin condition or to prevent the cat from ingesting the medications. Many skin conditions are worsened by pet licking. It has been estimated that about 95% of skin damage is due to licking. So whatever the cause of the skin condition, it is necessary for you not to allow your cat to continue to lick the area. Many times, cat skin conditions will need patience of the owners to determine the cause and then to treat the problem.

Cat aggression can be a serious problem. You first must determine the cause of the aggression. Is the cat aggression in a kitten or adult cat? Is the aggression directed toward an owner, another family member or another pet? Has the kitten or cat been examined by a veterinarian to rule out a physical or psychological problems? Physical problems that can induce cat aggression are hyperthyroidism, thiamine deficiency, brain tumor or head trauma to name a few.

It is very common for kittens to exhibit play aggression. In play aggression, kittens are acting on their natural instincts (hunting, pouncing, and surprise attacks) and this play aggression is directed towards littermates and mother. If the play gets too rough, the littermates or mother will react either by avoidance or a quick slap of the paw or bite to let the offender know that the behavior is not appropriate.

Territorial cat aggression can be exhibited with addition on a new cat to the family, some change in the environment or an already established pecking order. If a new cat is to be added to the family, the introduction process should be gradual and may take 2-3 weeks. Cats can also be aggressive to other cats that were family members if one cat has been out of the house for a period of time such as at the vet’s and now smells or acts differently. Gradual reintroduction may also be needed in these circumstances.

Cat aggression can be curbed by neutering or spaying. Neutering and spaying will help to alleviate cat fights. Keeping the cat’s claws trimmed will help prevent injuries if a fight breaks out. Providing adequate play stimuli will help to release energy and reduce any anxiety.

Cat aggression can be offensive or defensive. You can read aggressive behavior in a cat. A cat that is on the offensive will have its ears forward or sideways, pupils slit-like or rounded, eyes focused on the target of aggression, and tail out with tip flickering side to side. A defensively aggressive cat will have ears back and flat on the head, eyes dilated, tail curved or to the side and hair raised.

The best way to stop cat aggression is to distract the behavior prior to the kitten or cat making contact. Reliable distractions include noise (clap of hands, shaker can, and whistle), squirt gun or spray bottle. After averting the attack, ignore the kitten or cat. This will make the kitten or cat think of a more appropriate way to interact that will result in a pleasurable rub and scratching. Interacting with a kitten or cat using a toy tied to a wand or string will exercise the cat and show it appropriates ways to practice their predatory needs to hunt and pounce.

If a cat fight does start, avoid your first instinct to try and beak up the fight. Chances are you will become injured while trying to separate them. Use a broom or blanket to try and separate the cats. Separate the cats and isolate them from each other until they have a chance to calm down. Separation may need to be overnight with an observed reintroduction.

Cat aggression follows inappropriate elimination as the top two behavior problems in cats. Many kittens and cats that have yet to outgrow or have yet to be trained to curb play aggression are surrendered to shelters each year. With time, patience on your part and proper training, most types of cat aggression can be overcome.

Poor litter box maintenance is often the cause of cats soiling outside of the box. The first rule of thumb is that there should be one more litter box than there are cats in the household. These boxes should be located on different floors in the house. If there are multiple cats and not enough places to keep the litter boxes, litter boxes can be placed together, side by side, so they can be used by multiple cats at the same time.

Part of litter box maintenance is choosing a litter box that your cat likes. The size of the litter box needs to fit your cat. Cats must be able to turn around comfortably in the box. The box needs to be lower if being used by a kitten than if it is being used by adult cats. If the kitten cannot climb in or out of the box, the kitten will refuse to use it. Some cats need a higher sided litter box, because they tend to spray high or fling litter. Other cats will not eliminate in a litter box that is covered or placed near objects that scare them, such as items hanging over the box.

There are various types of litter that can be purchased for your box. Litter types include clay type litter, litter made from plant products and litter made from recycled materials. Some litter forms clumps, while others do not. Some litter is fine in texture, some are pellet-like. You will need to decide what works best for your cat. Once you have decided on a litter type, do not change the litter type, as this change can lead to unwelcome accidents and unhappy pets.

Having a scoop that fits the size of the litter is very important in litter box maintenance. Most scoops are metal or plastic, fairly inexpensive, and easy to clean. The openings or slots in the scoop need to be able to allow the non-clumped kitty litter to pass through while capturing the feces and urine clumps. You may need to add new litter as you scoop waste to maintain adequate litter depth. Most litter manufacturers recommend a litter depth of 2 to 3 inches as an adequate depth for cats to bury their waste. Some cats prefer deeper litter if they tend to dig a lot when burying their feces.

The area around the litter boxes should also be kept cleaned. Mats can be placed around the litter boxes to prevent tracking of the kitty litter out of the area. Also, if the litter boxes are not covered, then the walls around the boxes can be covered with absorbent material to collect any overspray of urine. These materials should be removed daily to keep the urine smell to a minimum.

The litter box must be cleaned daily and the clumps removed. On average, non-clumping litter will need to be completely changed more often than clumping litter. Urine tends to pool at the bottom of a litter box with non-clumping litter, so you may want to use a liner to make litter box maintenance easier. The entire litter box will need to be cleaned and rinsed thoroughly with water periodically. Adding a little vinegar or lemon juice to the water will help neutralize the odor of the cat’s urine. Do not use ammonia; this will make the litter box smell worse.

The most common cat ear mites are Otodectes Cynotis. In fact, 90% of all cats will be infested with ear mites at sometime. Fifty percent of cat ear infections are due to ear mites. Ear mites usually live in the ears and on the head of affected cats, but they can sometimes live on the body of the cat, too. Cat ear mites live on the surface of the skin in the ear ear canal, where they feed on tissue debris and tissue fluids. Ear mites are contagious and often affect most of the cats in a household. Cat ear mites can also affect other household pets, including dogs.

The presence of mites can cause severe inflammation in a cat’s ears. Signs of an ear mite infection are head shaking, scratching or rubbing the ears. Untreated ear mites can also lead to bacterial and yeast infections due to the inflammation and lack of air in the ear canal. Mites stimulate the wax producing glands in the ear canal, leading to wax buildup. This wax buildup mixed with ear mite feces and fluids is dark in color and looks like coffee grounds. Sometimes, cat ear mites will also cause your cat’s ears to have an unpleasant odor. If the head shaking and scratching are severe, the ears can be further damaged by broken blood vessels leading to swelling (hematomas).

You should take your cat or kitten to a veterinarian for treatment. The vet will begin the cat ear mite treatment with cleaning of the ear canal. Ear wax and debris will be flushed out of the ear during an office visit. Veterinarians typically treat mites with medication, usually in the form of drops that not only kill the mites but also prevent secondary infections and reduce inflammation. Both ears should be treated even if only one ear appears infested. Depending on the medication prescribed, drops will most likely have to be given to the cat or kitten twice a day over a period of time. Stopping treatment too soon will allow mite larvae to reach adulthood and begin the infestation again. The life cycle of cat ear mites is 3 weeks, so the veterinarian may want to reexamine your cat or kitten after 4 weeks to make sure all mites are gone. An asymptomatic cat with mites could repeatedly re-infect recently treated cats. All cats and dogs in a household would need to be treated at the same time.

One of the causes of chronic ear mites infections is treating only the ears. In order to eliminate ear mites in your cat or kitten, it is important to treat not only your cat’s ears, but its fur and its environment. There are a number of approved medications for ear mites available from your veterinarian. Cat flea control products that kill adult fleas will kill cat ear mites. These may be used to treat the cat’s fur and the house. (Use according to the directions on the label.)