Potty training your bird can be a fairly easy and straightforward process. It will likely take some time and patience, but the rewards will be well worth it. Be sure your pet is old enough before potty training your bird; most birds younger than 4 months of age are not mature enough to handle potty training. Concentrate on positive reinforcement when potty training your bird; praise is far more effective than scolding. Remember to be patient and consistent in your potty training efforts.

Most birds do not defecate during the night, and therefore need to do so in the morning. Many birds are more likely to “go” shortly after they eat, and many birds poop frequently throughout the day. Generally speaking, the larger the bird, the longer she can go between poops. Spend some time each day observing before you start potty training your bird. Each bird is different, and you may be able to identify some clear behavioral patterns in your pet. Many birds exhibit the same behaviors or mannerisms before eliminating. Knowing these will make potty training your bird easier.

Decide where you want your bird to poop, before you begin potty training your bird. Once you start training, try to keep things as consistent as possible, until the desired behaviors are well established. Try to select a location and setting that will be easily accessible and convenient. You may wish to decide on a specific phrase to use while potty training your bird to signal to the bird that you want her to poop. If your bird is a talking breed, remember that she may repeat the phrase you use; be sure to select your “trigger phrase” judiciously.

Once you have observed your bird to identify her natural cues, selected a location or setting for the potty training, and decided on a specific word or phrase to use, you are ready to begin potty training your bird. Before you begin playing with your bird, start by going to the designated potty spot and saying the chosen phrase. You may have to repeat it a few times, so be patient. Wait for her to relive herself, and then praise your bird lavishly. While you are playing, watch for cues that your bird needs to “go.” Even in the absence of these cues, plan to take your bird to the designated potty spot at regular intervals based on the frequency of normal elimination that you have already observed. Each time, be very consistent in your words and actions, and praise your bird highly for each elimination. Potty training your bird will take time and patience, but birds are intelligent and learn quickly. Remember that accidents are inevitable, but scolding does little to minimize them. Instead, rely on plenty of praise while potty training your bird. You will soon find that you both enjoy playtime more and bond better when potty training is successfully completed.

Bird foot problems can be caused by injury or illness, and most are avoidable. Because the feet of birds are not covered in feathers and because many birds perch on their human companions, observing bird foot problems is usually fairly easy. Bird foot problems caused by injury most often include those as a result of getting trapped in cage bars or on toys. Cage bars that are very ornate can include uneven spacing and small holes that can be dangerous to birds. Such cages are best used as decoration and not housing. Cage bars should never have a wider spacing at the top than at the bottom. Such spacing can cause a bird’s leg or foot to become trapped. Toys with small openings that could trap a bird’s foot, or portion of the foot, are unsafe and should never be used. Rope that is used as a perch or as part of a toy should be checked regularly for signs of fraying. Rope perches should not be used with birds who have very sharp nails as the nails could get caught in the fibers of the rope. Bird foot problems caused by illness or health issues can include skin diseases, infections, and parasites. Amazon foot necrosis, a fairly common bird foot problem, may be caused by the presence of allergens such as food ingredients, tobacco smoke, or cosmetics. (These last two relate to human companions, not the birds themselves!) Although this ailment is widely-known among avian veterinarians, its causes are not definitively known. A common infectious bird foot problem is known as bumblefoot and afflicts many types of birds. Common symptoms are swelling on the bottom of the foot, often accompanied by a small crust on the skin. Some common causes of this condition are inactivity, obesity, and dirty perches. The best treatment is simple prevention: keep your bird at a healthy weight and be sure her cage and perches clean. Foot mites are a bird foot problem that most often affects canaries and parakeets. Infestation by these foot mites is often referred to as tasselfoot, since tassel-like projections grow from the feet of infected birds. Many bird foot problems can be prevented by ensuring that your bird stays active and maintains a healthy weight. Since caged birds spend a good deal of time on their feet, avian obesity contributes to foot problems. Clean cages, selecting appropriate perches and keeping them hygienic will also help to minimize bird foot problems.

The bird flu is a strain of influenza that is highly contagious and should be taken very seriously. Symptoms in birds differ according to the species but can include diarrhea, breathing difficulties, a swollen head and death. The birds can pass the virus for up to ten days through their stools, nasal secretions, or saliva.

If you suspect a wild bird has the bird flu, contact your local police department or wildlife department. If you think your pet bird has the bird flu, contact your local veterinarian immediately. If you believe you have come in contact with a bird that has the bird flu, make sure you wash your hands and clothes thoroughly and immediately. Keep pet birds inside and take great care to wash your hands after handling him or his food or water. If your domestic bird has contracted bird flu, your veterinarian will likely order him quarantined for a period of time to make sure any danger of spreading the disease has passed.

Bird flu can range from a minor illness to a profound epidemic in very little time. In some circumstances, death will occur as a result of being infected with the bird flu. Prevention is relatively simple. Stay away from outdoor birds, especially dead ones you find on your property. If you must dispose of the bird, lift it with a shovel or other tool that makes sure you will never touch the body. Bury the body deep enough that scavenging animals will not be able to dig it up. If the bird died from bird flu, it is possible it may spread the disease to any animal or person that comes in contact with it, so caution is very important.

Perhaps the most important precaution is the most overlooked – wash your hands. Most of us say we wash our hands frequently, but really do little more than rinse them under running water. To be truly effective, you must scrub your hands, nails, and wrists with soap for at least 30 seconds. Don’t make the mistake of thinking that you’re washing long enough. Count the next time you wash your hands, you may be surprised to find you’re actually spending about half that time on your routine.

A little prevention and care can help stop the spread of the dreaded bird flu in homes and domestic animals. You’ve spent a lot of time caring for and loving your pet bird, and it’s very important to continue that now. The steps you take can save both you and your pet, and help control the outbreak of this disease.

Teaching your bird to talk is something many bird owners look forward to with a mix of excitement and apprehension. Most bird owners have plenty of questions about how best to go about this task, how soon they can expect results, and how many words their bird will learn. All of these answers, of course, will vary from one breed to another and even from one individual bird to another.

Most experts agree that the most successful method of teaching your bird to talk is through regular, frequent, consistent interaction. Most birds learn to talk in much the same way that babies do - by repeating what they hear most often. Keeping a running dialogue, albeit a one-sided one, with your bird will help in your efforts at teaching your bird to talk. Each time you enter the room, be sure to greet him. Try to use one or two short phrases and use them consistently. Saying, “Hi, Bird!” or “Hello, Petey!” each time you enter the room will help him learn to associate these phrases with greetings. This is more effective for teaching your bird to talk than if you say, “Good morning, birdie” and “Hello, handsome guy” later and “What’s up, bud?” the next time.

While each bird is different, some don’t begin to talk until they are around 12 months old or older. Of course, you should not wait until then to begin teaching your bird to talk! Birds are learning all the time, although they may wait a while to demonstrate just what they have learned.

By learning to talk, birds are actually learning to communicate. They are interested in the interaction that comes from a conversation, not just the repetition of words and phrases. This is why you could leave your television on all day, or play “Teach Your Pretty Parrot to Talk in 5 Days” tapes nearly nonstop for a month, and your bird may never actually learn to talk more than a few words, if at all. Teaching your bird to talk involves interacting with him and teaching him words and phrases that are meaningful to him. He will be more likely to learn words that result in getting him dinner or a treat, for instance, than in learning how to say the dog’s name. Teaching your bird to talk is a fun and fulfilling process. More than just getting him to repeat words, by teaching your bird to talk you are helping him learn to communicate and bond with you. Keep in mind that your bird may eventually repeat nearly anything you say, so you may want to be careful what you say in front of your bird!

Selecting a perch that is right for your bird will help keep her happy and healthy. In the wild, birds are exposed to rocks, rough perches, and other factors that keep their nails and beaks worn properly through natural abrasion. Perches also, obviously, give your bird someplace to stand when she isn’t flying around in her cage. Focus on selecting a perch that is safe and durable and provides some variety for your feathered friend. Sandpaper perches, although readily available at many pet stores, should always be avoided. Perches should always be the right size for your bird and, depending on the breed, your bird may need multiple perches. Birds that enjoy climbing, such as parrots, are generally happy with a single large perch. Breeds that tend to fly more than climb, like finches, should have a perch at either end of their cage. When selecting a perch, start by deciding on the type of materials used. Most “starter” bird cages come with perches made of pine or other soft woods. These are acceptable for most birds, but your pet may be easily bored with the smooth, sanded surface. Think about gathering natural wood branches instead of selecting a perch from a store. Dowels can also be used for perches, giving your bird a greater variety of diameters. Plastic perches, either made from PVC or acrylic, are very hardy and easy to clean. If you opt for a plastic perch, be sure to offer your bird plenty of other items to chew on. While PVC perches are sturdy, birds who are strong chewers will be able to damage the perches and potentially harm themselves. Mineral perches, which may also be called cement or concrete perches, are good for most birds. The rough texture helps birds groom their beaks and nails. Anther option in selecting a perch is one made of rope. These are convenient for humans, because they are easily cleaned in the dishwasher or washing machine, and most birds really enjoy them. Rope perches must be inspected regularly and discarded when the ropes show signs of wear to prevent your bird from catching her nails in it or swallowing pieces of the rope. Selecting a perch is only one step.You must also be sure to place the perch or perches appropriately in your bird’s cage. Perches should never be placed where the bird’s droppings can fall and contaminate food or water bowls. Be sure to place the perches so that the bird’s tail feathers are not going to come into contact with water or food or the floor of the cage. Selecting a perch (or more than one) that is appropriate for your bird and placing the perch properly can help keep your bird fit and happy. Perches provide the opportunity for exercise and play as well as grooming. Selecting a perch that is right for your bird is almost as important as choosing a cage that’s right for her.

Bird parasites can include both internal and external parasites. By definition, a parasite is an organism that lives on another organism; often the parasite benefits while the host organism suffers in some way. In the case of bird parasites, external parasites are usually more common than internal ones. Imported birds are much more likely to suffer from parasites than domestically raised birds.

Common types of external bird parasites are different species of mites. These can include feather mites, red or gray mites, and cere or knemidocoptic mites. Feather mites damage the bird’s feathers by attacking the feather shafts. Some signs of feather mites include broken or damaged feathers and excessive picking at the feathers. Red and gray mites feed on the skin of the bird and are usually most active at night. This means that nighttime is when you are most likely to see behaviors like excessive scratching. Cere and knemidocoptic mites affect budgies more often than other birds and burrow into the fleshy past above the bird’s beak (the cere). Other affected areas can include the eyelids, legs, feet, and other areas of the face and beak.

Internal bird parasites are usually much harder to recognize and are often only properly diagnosed through blood tests by your vet. Some internal parasites include various types of blood protozoa. These are much more common in imported birds and are rarely seen in domestically bred birds. Roundworms can be found in parrots but rarely affect other species. Symptoms of roundworm infection include extreme weight loss and weakness. Giardia is a bird parasite that can infect parakeets and cockatiels causing oily feathers, lethargy and difficulty breathing.

Keeping your bird and her cage clean are important steps to preventing parasite infestation. Before introducing a new bird to your existing cage, always make sure the bird has been completely tested and found to be parasite-free. Check your bird’s food regularly to ensure it is fresh and free from infestation by any insects. Throw out any food that has become moldy or been infested.

Bird parasites, either external or internal, should be properly diagnosed by an avian veterinarian. In the case of suspected internal parasites, your vet may need a sample of the bird’s droppings to test. Internal bird parasites are usually treated through medications. Most often, external bird parasites are dealt with by applying topical treatments like powders or sprays.

Bird aggression can sometimes be caused by lack of socialization, frustration on the part of the bird, or by putting the bird in a situation in which he feels vulnerable. Understanding how to communicate with your bird and reduce his frustration can also help to reduce bird aggression. Bird aggression can be characterized by behaviors such as biting, screaming or squawking, or becoming overly bonded to one individual and refusing to interact with other humans.

Early training and socialization, usually between fledglings and around 18 months of age, is one important key in reducing bird aggression. At this age, you can help the bird get used to his surroundings, people, and other animals before aggressive behaviors become habitual. Once aggressive behaviors become the norm for a bird, it is much harder to retrain him to be less aggressive.

Some birds act aggressively when food is present, using instinctive behaviors to protect their food source. Territorial aggression is also common among many species of birds. Regardless of species, most birds tend to be very territorially aggressive when breeding to protect their nests. For parrots that show a great deal of territorial aggression, one suggestion is minimizing the time the bird spends in his cage. By expanding the areas in which he is allowed, the bird may display less aggression surrounding his own immediate territory: his cage. Sexual maturation sometimes causes an increase in bird aggression as well.

Birds in the wild need to act aggressively in order to protect themselves when they feel threatened. Pet birds are no different, and they will lash out when they feel vulnerable or in danger. A bird may be especially intimidated in new surroundings and should be dealt with slowly and cautiously. Reaching into the cage to take a bird out can cause a great deal of fear for him, resulting in bird aggression. Take time to allow the bird to become accustomed to you and to his surroundings. Deal with him slowly, patiently, and consistently. Birds who are in familiar settings and know what behaviors, actions and reactions to anticipate are less likely to behave aggressively. Bird aggression should always be dealt with quickly and firmly to prevent the behavior from becoming a habit. As with most other areas of animal training, consistent behavior modification through positive reinforcement should be employed. Completely ignore your bird while he is acting aggressively, and lavish him with praise, when he behaves well. He will soon associate the positive reinforcement with not performing the aggressive behavior, and the bird aggression should stop.